The Nautilus story begins in 1976, when Patek Philippe did something radical: they asked Gérald Genta – the legendary designer behind the Royal Oak – to create a luxury sports watch in steel with an integrated bracelet and a bold, maritime-inspired case. Patek Philippe SA+1

The result was the reference 3700/1A, nicknamed the “Jumbo”:

  • A large (for the time) 40 mm case shaped like a ship’s porthole

  • A slim profile and beautiful brushed surfaces

  • An integrated steel bracelet that flowed seamlessly from the case

  • A horizontally embossed blue dial that caught light like water

At launch, it was more expensive than many gold dress watches – in steel. For traditionalists, that was almost unthinkable. But the Nautilus wasn’t trying to please everyone; it was speaking to a new kind of client who wanted something they could wear on a boat, at a resort, or in a casual office without giving up Patek-level refinement.

Over time, that “too bold” design became the blueprint for the modern luxury sports watch.


From 3700 to 5711: The Legend Grows

Through the ’80s and ’90s, the Nautilus evolved quietly with slightly smaller references and more complications. But the real explosion came with the Nautilus 5711/1A, launched in 2006 for the model’s 30th anniversary. Monochrome Watches+1

The 5711 did something simple and brilliant:

  • It brought back the clean three-hand layout with date

  • Kept the slim case and integrated bracelet

  • Added a modern movement and refined finishing

It was still “just” a time-and-date watch – no tourbillon, no perpetual calendar, no crazy complications – but it felt perfect. Understated, wearable, effortlessly elegant.

Then the world noticed.

By the late 2010s, demand for the 5711/1A went crazy. Waiting lists stretched into years, and pre-owned prices shot far above retail. Patek eventually discontinued it in 2021, fuelling the legend even more. Hodinkee+1

Today, average resale prices remain well into six figures, and the watch has become a modern grail – the kind of piece people reward themselves with after major life milestones. (Content creator Joe Santagato literally bought a Nautilus 5711 to celebrate selling out his podcast tour and finishing the NYC Marathon. Page Six) For singer Ed Sheeran, a Nautilus 5711 with Tiffany-stamped dial became the watch he associates with the birth of his first daughter. GQ

When a watch is tied to stories like that, you know it’s gone beyond “object” and into “symbol.”


The Modern Nautilus Line-Up: More Than Just One Reference

Even with the 5711 gone, Patek Philippe Nautilus is far from a one-watch story. The current collection is a whole family of models, each riffing on the original porthole design. Patek Philippe SA+1

A few highlights:

Nautilus 5811 – The New “Jumbo”

The 5811/1G is widely seen as the spiritual successor to the 5711:

  • 41 mm white gold case

  • Updated, more modern movement

  • Classic blue sunburst dial with horizontal embossing

It keeps everything people love about the Nautilus shape and dial, but in precious metal and with subtle refinements. chronohunter.com

Complication Models

Patek has turned the Nautilus into a platform for serious watchmaking:

  • Nautilus Annual Calendar – blending the sporty case with a highly practical complication that needs adjusting only once a year (at the end of February).

  • Nautilus Chronograph (e.g., 5980) – aggressive, dynamic and perfect for those who want something a little more technical on the dial. Patek Philippe SA+1

  • Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph (e.g., 5990) – dual time zone, chronograph, date… all in one integrated case. It’s the frequent traveller’s power move.

Nautilus for Women

The Nautilus design also shines in smaller sizes, not just scaled-down men’s watches but thoughtfully executed ladies’ pieces with diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and precious metals. References like 7118 (approx. 35.2 mm) keep the Nautilus DNA while fitting slimmer wrists elegantly. Chrono24

From steel to rose gold to diamond-set masterpieces, the Nautilus has become a complete universe – one visual language, many personalities.


Why the Nautilus Hits Different

Lots of watches are rare. Many are expensive. Not all of them feel like the Nautilus. So what makes it so magnetic?

1. Perfectly Balanced Design

There’s a reason the basic Nautilus silhouette hasn’t changed much since 1976:

  • The “ears” on the side of the case give it character without feeling awkward

  • The blend of brushed and polished surfaces keeps it sporty and refined at once

  • The integrated bracelet is slim, flexible and incredibly comfortable for daily wear

It’s a design that feels modern in 2025 but would still look right in old black-and-white photos.

2. Casual Luxury Done Right

The Nautilus looks as natural with a linen shirt and sneakers as it does with a blazer. It’s not a fragile dress watch you’re afraid to wear, nor a tool watch that feels out of place at dinner.

That “rich but relaxed” vibe is a big part of its enduring charm.

3. Scarcity and Story

Patek Philippe doesn’t flood the market. Production is limited, demand is huge, and waiting times – especially for stainless steel Nautilus models – can still stretch to 5–8 years at authorised dealers, depending on the reference. chronohunter.com+1

Add in celebrity stories, record auction results and that famous discontinuation of the 5711, and you get a watch that collectors talk about even when they don’t own one.


Is the Nautilus the Right Patek for You?

A Patek Philippe Nautilus is not a casual purchase, and it shouldn’t be.

It might be the right piece if:

  • You want one watch that can go from vacation to client meeting without missing a beat

  • You love the idea of a sport-luxury watch that is truly refined, not just “a dress watch on a rubber strap”

  • You’re drawn to iconic design and willing to play the long game – whether that means waiting at retail or choosing the right piece on the secondary market

If your taste leans more toward pure dress watches and formal occasions, a Calatrava or certain Complications might be a better fit. But if you live in casual clothes, travel often and want something that feels like a modern classic on the wrist, the Nautilus has a pull that’s hard to shake.


Navigating the Nautilus Market with AristoHK

Of course, wanting a Nautilus and finding the right one are two very different things.

Questions like:

  • 5711, 5811, chronograph, Travel Time, annual calendar – which reference suits your lifestyle?

  • Steel vs gold vs two-tone – which material feels like “you” on the wrist?

  • Are you looking for a daily wear piece, or a special-occasion and long-term collection cornerstone?

  • How do you balance budget, condition, provenance and future desirability?

This is where a specialist luxury watch house like AristoHK (aristohk.com) becomes invaluable.

Instead of scrolling through endless anonymous listings, you get:

  • Curated Nautilus options chosen for their condition, configuration and authenticity

  • Real-world advice on fit, comfort and how different references (and metals) wear day-to-day

  • Insight into collectability – which models tend to hold or grow in value, and which might be underrated sweet spots

  • Confidence that your Nautilus is genuine, correctly represented and backed by people who live and breathe high-end horology

Whether you’re finally ready to chase your grail or you’re adding a Nautilus as the sport-luxury pillar of a serious collection, working with experts like the team at AristoHK turns an intimidating decision into a rewarding one.


In the end, the Patek Philippe Nautilus isn’t just a “hot watch.” It’s the rare case where hype, history, design and everyday wearability all line up.

Get the right one on your wrist, and you’ll understand why collectors talk about it the way they do – not as a trend, but as the watch that quietly anchors a lifetime of moments, one glance at a time.